Just when you think there are already enough Chinese restaurants and that no more could possibly stand out in Cairo, another one with a unique twist opens its doors.
Chinese cuisine is more than spring rolls and sweet and sour chicken—it encompasses a culinary tradition with a deep cultural history, with a wide range of techniques, flavors, and tastes to explore, reflecting the sheer diversity of China’s provinces.
China’s vast geography also means there are countless variations of a single dish, each with its own unique story to tell.
What makes Chinese cuisine especially fascinating is the depth of subtle details that often go unnoticed. A simple bowl of noodles, for example, may seem bland at first glance, yet it holds layers of complexity. Noodles may look similar, but their flavors and textures can vary widely based on ingredients, cooking methods, and regional styles.
As a long-time fan of Chinese cuisine, I was intrigued to try YIWAN, a Chinese restaurant in the Rehab area of New Cairo, known for its specialty in authentic Lanzhou Beef Noodles, a traditional Chinese method of hand-pulling noodles. At first, the question that might come to mind is: what makes a bowl of noodles so special? The answer lay in the experience, whereby I learnt that even a food as simple as noodles can carry a rich history.
One simple bowl of noodles, rich in history and flavor
For every culture and region, there’s a traditional dish that serves as a symbol of the working class, providing the sustenance needed to power through long hours of labor and combat fatigue. In northern China, that dish is the hand-pulled beef noodles of Lanzhou.
Lanzhou, often referred to as the “Golden City,” sits at a historic crossroads in Northwest China and has long been a key stop on the ancient Silk Road. Through its iconic bowl of hand-pulled noodles, Lanzhou has become a symbol of the rich, interconnected culture of the Silk Road.
The hand-making process is intense and not for the weak, as even celebrity UK chef Gordon Ramsay, who holds a total of 8 Michelin stars across restaurants worldwide, admits, as he once said that “you have to be very fit.” The technique involves taking a lump of dough and methodically stretching it to create long, thin strands of noodle.
In the Lanzhou style, the dough is worked with force. It’s pulled in sharp, quick tugs, and some noodle pullers even slam the dough against their prep boards to ensure the stretching is even and the thickness remains consistent.
What sets this technique apart is the distinct texture of the noodles, which is unlike regular noodles. In contrast to traditional noodles, Lanzhou noodles tend to be smoother and springier, with a chewier bite.
Eating them is considered by many a more fun experience, as you can effortlessly slurp them up in one go with your chopsticks.
If the hand-making process wasn’t challenging enough, an even greater challenge —yet also the most soulful part of the dish — is the lamb broth. This rich, clear broth is infused with beef, tender Chinese radish slices, an abundance of cilantro and scallions, and finished with deep red chili oil served on the side for you to add at your preference.
While the dish seems beautiful enough when described, what truly elevated the experience tenfold was the restaurant. The history and culinary craftsmanship in action was what inspired me to visit the restaurant in person.
Bringing Northern China to Cairo
In recent years, Cairo has seen an influx of Chinese expats and Chinese investors, who have brought with them a wealth of culinary traditions, including the time-honored craft of noodle-making.
When you step into most Chinese restaurants, there’s often an expectation of overly traditional decor, sometimes leaning into stereotypes. However, at YIWAN, the atmosphere feels more authentic. The open kitchen, where noodles are hand-pulled right before your eyes, adds a unique touch, while the simple, unpretentious seating area creates a genuine dining experience — one that feels more like a place where locals would choose to eat, rather than a tourist-centric setup.
As we selected our seats at the far end of the restaurant, we couldn’t help but notice the prominent presence of Chinese expats, with the chefs themselves also being Chinese. Before we even had the chance to place our order, we were greeted with a warm cup of Chinese tea. This soulful beverage, made from tea leaves cultivated in China and processed using traditional methods, set a welcoming tone for our experience.
As we slowly sipped our warm cup of Chinese tea, we then scoured the menu and took the advice of one of the waiters, who recommended us to try the iconic Lanzhou Beef Noodles, which are priced at EGP 288 (USD 5.67), as well as the Chinese dumplings, which are priced at EGP 258 (USD 5.08). We trusted his recommendation and decided to order both, with an extra side of dry-fried noodles, which are priced at EGP 298 (USD 5.87), to get a better picture of how different noodles taste, and the variety of noodles that Chinese cuisine offers.
At first, the Chinese tea might seem unusual, especially since in Egypt, tea is typically served after a meal. However, I find this Chinese tradition to be thoughtful and intentional. The tea helps calm both the stomach and the senses, preparing you for the sensory experience to come.
Within five minutes, the Lanzhou Beef Noodles arrived — served in a large bowl big enough for two. The waiter kindly offered one bowl each to both my sister and me. At first, it can be a bit tricky to pour the noodle broth into the bowl due to the springy texture of the noodles. To make it easier, it’s best to use a fork to gently separate the noodles, ensuring you don’t end up with too many in one serving.
Once the noodles are in the bowl, the next step is to pour the broth over them, followed by a drizzle of Chinese red chili oil. If you prefer a spicier dish, simply stir to mix the chili oil into the broth and noodles. Then, grab some chopsticks and start slurping the noodles, savoring the plentiful flavors of the broth with each bite.
The combination of the noodles’ texture and the depth of the flavors quickly draws you into a meditative state, where you’re fully absorbed in the experience, leaving little room for conversation.
The Lanzhou Beef Noodles are hearty and flavorful enough to stand alone as a meal, thanks to its broth and generous portion size. However, if you’d like to explore other dishes, the Chinese dumplings make a perfect side. Their tender dough, filled with either vegetables or meat, offers a satisfying contrast to the noodles, especially when dipped in the spicy red chili oil.
For a different twist, try the dry-fried noodles, which feature less broth and more bold, spicy flavors, with the noodles soaking up soy sauce that adds an extra kick to the dish.
Beyond the flavors, the experience became all the more meaningful knowing the history behind such an iconic dish and its significance in the lives of countless impoverished families in northern China.
With every slurp, we tasted not just food, but a piece of history and culture, and by the end of the meal, it was clear that we would be returning for a second round.
